Writer iyo sahamisa Heinrich Harrer: Biography, shaqada, buugaagta ugu wanaagsan, iyo xiiso leh xaqiiqooyinka

Isaga oo nolosha iyo buugaag badan oo lagu qiimeeyaa marka laga eego xubnaha xisbiga Nazi ka, sameynta gabagabo on awood sabab uu guulaha isboortiga iyo waxbarashada. Heinrich Harrer had iyo jeer loo arkaa inuu joogo ururka xagga fikradaha ah iyo ciidamada faashistihii sida aan ikhtiyaarka lahayn ah oo aan si buuxda u miyir qabo, inkastoo uu isku dayay in aan si ay u muujiyaan. Haddii aadan muhiimad badan u views siyaasadeed Harrer, waxaan la yaabsanahay karaa oo keliya ee adkeysiga iyo geesinimada mountaineer this caan ah iyo Musaafurka.

sanadaha hore

Waxa uu ku dhashay 1912 magaalada yar Austria Obergossene ah, in qoyska shaqaalaha boostada Yozefa Harrera iyo xaaskiisa Johanna. In 1927 waxay u guureen Graz, halkaas oo Heinrich Harrer qalin jebin dugsiga sare iyo soo galay Jaamacadda Karl Franz. Laga soo bilaabo 1933 in 1938 uu bartay juqraafi iyo waxbarashada jirdhiska waqti isku mid ah ka qayb qaatay buuraha iyo barafka.

Waxa uu ahaa musharax in ay ka qayb Ciyaaraha Winter Olympic ee 1936, ee lagu qabtay Germany. Laakiin Austria waxaa qaadacay sababtoo ah barayaasha chargeability in skiing Alpine aqoonyahanada in iyaga diidaya ka dalcadaha Olympic. In 1937, Heinrich Harrer ku guuleystay tartanka mid marwalba ka, ka mid ah barnaamijka ciyaaraha Student Adduunka, laakiin waxa uu noqday kacsi run, waayo, waxaa la koro.

North Waji of Eiger ah

By dhamaadka kooraska jaamacadda on account ka Harrer lahaa buurta dhowr kedis ah category ugu sareeya ee kakanaanta. In 1938, si wadajir ah ula uu saaxiib iyo wadanka Fritz Kasparek, Heinrich Harrer timaado in qabsashadii of halyeeyga "Wall of Death" - oo wejiga weyn height ah Ahraamta dhagax adag woqooyi ee 3970 mitir, taas oo u dhashay magaca Eiger ee Alps Swiss ah.

derbigan ku hadhay unclimbed muddo dheer, inkastoo isku dayo badan oo sheegay in daraasiin ka mid ah noloshooda. Wadooyinka ahaan wajiga Eiger woqooyi, qaab-dhismeedka dhulka ee adag ee cimilada top iyo deegaanka ee degaanka. Dusha smoothed kuli badan, ku dhowaad si buuxda u daboolay baraf oo uu leeyahay jiirada celcelis ahaan 75 darajo, oo meelaha qaarkood iyo eexda xun.

inta jeer sare ee rockfalls iyo kuli, cimilada si degdeg ah beddelo sameeyey jiirtii wajiga woqooyi ee dilaaga ah ee Eiger. Sidaas darteed, maamulka si rasmi ah loo xidhay jiirada ee climbers iyo samatabbixiyeyaasha buurta diiday in ay badbaadiyaan kuwa ku iman on iyaga u gaar ah on wadada this.

July 24, 1938

Horeba on derbiga Kasparek Austrians iyo Harrer xidhmada leh laba climbers Jarmal - Anderle Hekmayerom iyo Ludwig Vorgom qaatay qalab dheeraad ah oo lagu kalsoonaan karo, waayo, marinka ee dusha barafka. isku day wadajirka ah inay fuulaan guul, inkastoo qaska qaar marka la badbaadiyey caymis oo keliya, iyo is geliyey gebiyo, kaas oo badbaadiyey qalabka lagu kalsoonaan karo oo kaliya, samir iyo joogtaynta. Heinrich Harrer, kuwaas oo sida caadiga ah buugaagta ku tilmaami sahamo kala duwan, ka dib u sheegay oo ku saabsan dhacdadan in novel documentary ah "The White Spider" (1959).

Guusha kooxda Austria-German ee climbers dhacay saddex bilood oo kaliya ka dib markii badhkood of Austria by Nazi Germany, dacaayad Nazi dhigay calaamad u ah eed lahayn siyaasadda mintid ah fashiistanimo. Harrer wada jir ah ula guulaysannaa kale Eiger helay sharaf tiro badan iyo abaalmarino, iyo sidoo kale daawadayaasha la Hitler iyo madaxda kale ee Nazi.

Duulaan in Himalayas

Fuulitaanka codsatay in ay isboortiga, kuwaas oo in Nazi Germany, waxaa la siiyey fiiro gaar ah. Fatxi ee geesaha cusub oo marayay wadooyinka sahamin dacaayad Hitler ee arkay muhiimadda calaamad saldanad soo socda adduunka ee Aryan Nation. Iyada oo ay taasi soo jiidashada ganging Hitler ee la waxbarista asalka ah ee Shambhala - dalka halyeeyga deggan supermen, aqoon haysashada ka dhigi jabin karin iyo Qaadirka.

Sida ay legend, keniisad this ka mid ah danbow Hamalayan uu ku yaalay, laga yaabee in Tibet - dalka dahsoon, kaas oo maamula in ka akhriyi by dadka ajnabiga ah, oo ku saabsan taas ma jirin macluumaad sax ah ka Yurub. Sidaa darteed, ka war dhowr guutadii ee climbers Jarmal abaabulan si ay u sahamiyaan aaggaas. Lama oga in ujeedada ahayd search of the duulaan awaalka Shambhala Himilays ee 1939, qayb ka mid ah taas oo ay ka mid Harrer, laakiin taasi oo ku saabsan waxa ay inta badan odhan cilmi, faraxsan xaqiiqda ah in qofka socotada ah oo caan ah, muddo dheer qarinaayay ee la soo dhaafay Nazi.

Jidka Exploration on Nanga Parbat

The safar dheer, taas oo dhalisay in kitaabka ugu caansan kuwa qoray Heinrich Harrer - "Todoba Sano ee Tibet", waxaa loogu talagalay diyaarinta qabsashadii of mid ka mid ah danbow Hamalayan - diyaariyeen ah ee Nanga Parbat, oo ku yaalla waqooyi galbeed ee Himalayas, waxa markaas ahaa British gumeysi - Hindiya.

Ka dib markii hab cusub ugu sareysa kaalinta saddexaad ee tirada khasaaraha kuwa ay isku dayayaan inay ka adkaanno, ee climbers Jarmal inay sare ee dayrta ee 1939 waxay ahaayeen in Karachi, sugaya markabka in ay Europe ku soo laabto ayaa la helay. Markabka ayaa lagu xiray. Iyo wax yar ka dib September 1 - taariikhda bilaawga ee dagaalkii labaad ee dunida iyo ka dib markii laga soo galo ee iyada UK - September 3 - waxayna ahaayeen kuwo dhulka cadowga iyo la xiray.

baxsado guul

Isku dayaan in ay ka baxsadaan - hal iyo kooxo - firfircoon Austria ayaa ka Bilowgii xabsiga dhigay. Ka dib markii ay kooxda ku jirtay xerada xirinta ah, oo ku yaalla dooxada of Himalayas, waayo Harrer noqday ka baxsan cad - baas buurta ee Tibet iyada oo loo marayo. Dhaqdhaqaaqa gobolka buuraleyda ah ee dunida, xitaa Orodyahanka tababaran - ma hawl fudud u baahan in diyaarinta halis ah, sidaa darteed guulaha ay ahayd in Harrer ma aha isku day ugu horeysay.

Mode ee xerada, halkaas oo uu ku amray ilbaxnimada Ingariis ah cad aad uga duwan kuwa amar in Jarmalka sameeyey maxbuus dagaal on Front Bari. Sidaa darteed, Harrer iyo saaxiibbadiis lahaa fursad wanaagsan oo si fiican loogu diyaariyo in uu soo baxsado. Laakiin xitaa markaas, iyo soohdinta reer Hindiya iyo Tibet ma aannu soo gaadhay oo dhan - badan door bidaan in ay dib ugu xerada tagaan. In Lhasa - caasimadda Tibet ee - wada jir ah ula Harrer ahayd oo keliya Peter Aufschnaiter, oo inta badan ku xusan ee buugiisa, taas oo la qoray by Heinrich Harrer.

"7 Years in Tibet"

Books sameeyey Austria socotada caanka ah, waxa ku jira macluumaad badan oo ku saabsan dalka, halkaas oo ay helaan dadka ajnabiga ah waxaa ka mamnuuc sharciga. Waxaa jiray saadaalin ah oo mid ka mid ah nimankii xigmadda lahaa, sida laga soo xigtay oo Tibet badiyay ay xornimada ka dib waxaa jiri doona ajnabiga. Sidaa darteed, marka hore Harrer iyo saaxiibkiis dareemay cadaawad ee Tibetans oo dhan - oo adhijirrada fudud iyo madaxda sharaf leh.

Waxa uu is beddelay in siyaabo badan oo ay sabab u tahay isbedelka la isu ee characters weyn ee - si dhib dhibtani ku tamashle sare, kulan uu la yeeshay hab aan caadi ahayn nolosha Tibetans, yaqaano diintooda in beenisay xadgudubyada ka dhanka ah uun nool, waxaa naga hadhay wax raad lahayn in nafta nin, xataa marka hore soocay kuwa iskibriya fikradaha Nazi.

Afar iyo tobnaad Dalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - muuqashadii ku nool oo ka mid ah Buddha, hoggaamiyaha ruuxiga ah ee Tibet, wiil xiiso leh oo raba in uu wax dheeraad ah oo ku saabsan dunida ku bartaan, ku yaal kun oo miles ka dalkiisa - geesiga kale ee buugga. Heinrich Harrer iyo Dalai Lama, helay xeel dheer ee 1940, oo ay taageerayaan hordhaca Harrer ilaa dhimashadiisii 2006, dadkaas oo ah dad jiidasho xoog on kasta oo kale. Waxaa ka Austria ah, ka weyn by 26 sano, Dalai Lama ayaa bartay wax badan oo ku saabsan dhaqanka Yurub, guulihii sayniska iyo farsamada ee casriga.

Tani waxay keentay in eedeymaha Tibetan budista ka madaxda Shiinaha, xanuujin khuseeya su'aasha ah ee madaxbanaanida Tibet, xiriirka la lahaa naasigii. Dhinaca kale, awood weyn oo Dalai Lama ee siyaasadda dunida, kaas oo, in kasta oo ay ka go'an tahay ee cilmiga diinta qadiimiga, waa nin sooci karo ilbaxnimada casriga ah, ayaa sidoo kale billaabay in wehelnimada this laba qof oo dhallinyaro ah (gaar ahaan idinkoo xukumaya by film ee 1994), steel saaxiibada dhabta ah.

Iyagoo ka duulaya dhacdooyinkaas oo abuuray uu iibsado Heinrich Harrer. "Todoba Sano ee Tibet" iyo shot-buug on iyada film la Brad Pitt in doorka hogaanka - sameeyey magiciisa caanka ah dunida oo dhan. Inkastoo ka dib markii uu ku soo laabtay dalkiisa 1950, wuxuu u sameeyey wax badan oo fuulitaanka iyo duulaan ah juqraafi, ku hawlan hawlaha bulshada kala duwan, ayaa wuxuu daabacay in ka badan 20 buugaagta. Harrer waxaa inta badan sheegay in ay ahayd bogagga ugu qatarsan ee uu noloshiisa, in tan iyo Tibet weligiis u hoydeen qalbigiisa.